Editor’s Note: We know food vendors rock the blocks on American ground, but street food is also the best way to learn about cultures worldwide. With that in mind, we’d love to hear about the street food you encounter in Rio, Montreal, Hong Kong, or wherever you may be. You know what to do – email me at amy@vendr.tv. Today we wander down Snack Street in the Muslim Quarter of Xian, China thanks to VendrTV’s global grub trotter, Danny O’Sullivan of Street Foodie.
If you ever need to confirm that your life is but a speck in time, you may want to consider a visit to Xian. It’s a place where China’s ancient history meets its rampant modernization; in Xian, you can see time stretching out in both directions. The city buzzes with an energy that breaks down its ancient walls and transcends tired cliches of Old versus New.
Central to this sense of living history is Xian’s Muslim quarter. Built around a 1,000-year-old mosque, the tightly packed streets are home to a vibrant Muslim community that dates back to the days of the Silk Road. This legendary trade route stretched all the way to Constantinople in Turkey and brought goods, religion, and food from the west – the influence of which can still be found throughout the area today.
In my opinion, one of the best places to plug into this ongoing tradition is Snack Street in the Muslim Quarter. Located between a 14th Century Bell Tower and the Great Mosque, this narrow stretch of road teems with life from early in the morning until late at night with stalls selling everything from Mao paraphernalia to fake antique purveyors jostling for space with the ever-present food vendors.

Typical of the street food here are stuffed pancakes. These thin flat breads are prepared with lightning efficiency by teams of young Chinese Muslims, and come stuffed with minced beef, green onions, and spices. The flatbreads are deep fried in oil and come out rich, crispy, and tasty.

Also found bubbling away on the streets of the Muslim Quarter is Chao Liang Fen. This dish involves cubes of stir fried bean starch jelly, cooked in a spicy, chili and cumin-infused sauce. The starch cubes practically dissolve in the mouth upon contact, and have an odd cooling effect on the violent spiciness of the sauce.

Perhaps the most evocative Xianese street food, however, is Fenzhengrou. Cured mutton and bulgar wheat are steamed gently under cloths in huge street-side urns. The meat is incredibly tender and flavorful, and tastes great with the nutty, savory steamed bulgar wheat. For me, the simplicity and economy of the dish never fails to conjure up images of colorful east-bound trade caravans and meals eaten under desert skies.
Xian is going through some pretty momentous changes these days. But with street food this good, it looks like the flavors of the Silk Road will be around for some time to come.
Danny O'Sullivan hails from Belfast, but currently lives in Seoul where he teaches English while plotting to eat the world one street at a time. Connect with Danny on his food blog Street Foodie.
