Cruising through Round Top, TX en route to Austin, I found myself driving through a flea market of mass proportion. We’re talking 20 football fields packed with knickknacks and bric-a-brac. So, we’re cruising through this sea of stuff and, all of the sudden, the scent of mesquite and hickory smoke billows through the car’s AC. My body knew the scent before my mind could process it. By the time the two synced, I’d already parked the car and was floating toward Cowboys Cookin’ Crew’s rig. Moments later, I found myself talking shop with the owner, Nicky Nixon, with a beer in my hand.

You’ve gotta picture this guy. Nicky’s the uncle everyone wishes they had and a real man’s man. He has the face of a cowboy plus a pocketful of jokes and puns that surge forth without hesitation. But after a few one-liners – followed by my quick rebuttals – it was business time. Nicky described a sandwich he swore was like no other. As a man who’s quick to put his money where his mouth is, he began preparing what turned out to be, in fact, one of the tastiest sandwiches I’ve had to date.

Nicky liberally seasons the steak with his secret rub (left) while adding his Sweet Jalapeño bread to the grill (right)

First came the Sweet Jalapeño bun, which is baked fresh by Nicky’s wife each morning. It was sliced in half and liberally coated with butter before being thrown on the grill where it developed a light golden crust. The rib eye steak was marbled with just enough fat and coated with Nicky’s top secret, custom-blended rub. Over the red-hot mesquite it, too, went.

Nicky opened the grill once more. This time, he lobbed on a heap of butter, which melted instantly into the now-seared beef. To that he added a helping of caramelized onions, sauteed mushrooms, and a slice of provolone. The lid closed. My mouth watered and time stood still. But, finally, the moment came.

Nicky skillfully assembles a masterpiece.

I grabbed half the sandwich and went to town. It was unreal. Full disclosure: I have always been a pork guy. With pork belly, ham, and butt available, who needs beef? But by Bite #2, my meat allegiance shifted. The marbled beef burst with juice and was as easy to chew as the butter Nicky so lavishly lathered on top. The rub – heavy on cayenne and black pepper – added a spicy kick to the beef, while sweet onions and tender mushrooms enhanced the texture. The Sweet Jalapeño bread completed the masterpiece with just the right amount of chew. Like Art Tatum’s Too Marvelous for Words, each bite revealed unexpected turns and twists. And like a great jazz standard, the rests were as important as the notes, as it was in those few moments when the rich mesquite smoke made its way from the tip of my tongue to the back of my palate.

Each bite revealed new taste and texture!

I can’t fully express how much I enjoyed hanging with these guys, and how great Nicky’s sandwich is. Thanks to my built-in street food tracker (and sixth sense for awesome food), I had one of the best bites of my life. Yeehaw!

Cowboys Country Corner (their cafe)
31565 FM Road 1736
Hempstead, TX 77445
979-826-3031

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